Dunedin culture ` it's Dunners. It's uni. It's getting on the piss. I'm a breather. It's like, nah, you've stopped showering and you've got genuine alcoholism. Like... (ALL LAUGH) That's their attempt at trying to create a culture. And it's like... there was kind of one there already. Like, (CHUCKLES) you can just take our one. (ALL LAUGH) Kia ora. I'm Joe Daymond. You may or may not have heard of me. My friends call me Joey D, but really hot girls call me, 'New phone. Who dis?' (CHUCKLES DRILY) But that's not important right now. What is important is that I've teamed up with Kara Rickard. And together, we're like the ultimate search engine. - We're going to leave no stone unturned, as we try and find the real story... behind our country's place names. (SIGNS WHOOSH) Captions were made with the support of NZ On Air. www.able.co.nz Copyright Able 2022 (FUNKY HIP-HOP MUSIC) - I'm in Dunedin ` famous for cheese rolls, student drinking, and as the birthplace of Six60. (FUNKY MUSIC CONTINUES) But what's behind this rich culture, and why Dunedin? And Maori have an even longer history in the area. What happened to the original place names? It's time for Dunedin to get the name right. (UPBEAT MUSIC) So where does the name Dunedin come from in the first place? I think a good place to start might be Larnach Castle. So I'm meeting historian Sean Brosnahan, a man who keeps the name Dunedin close to his chest. So, Sean, where does the name Dunedin come from? - Well, Dunedin comes from Dun Eideann, which is the old Gaelic name for Edinburgh, capital of Scotland. So it's an absolutely epic name for a place like this that was founded by Scots. I mean, Edinburgh was described as a hotbed of genius in the 18th and 19th century. The wonderful advances that Scotland had pioneered in things like medicine and engineering and philosophy and law and all those things. We had a really close shave, actually. We were gonna call it New Edinburgh, but luckily they were picked up on that by a really influential Scottish figure of that time called William Chambers. He wrote to them and said, 'Look, New Edinburgh would basically suck. 'So why don't you use the old Gaelic name Dunedin?' - Dunedin. Dunners. Little Scotland. Kilt-wearing bastards came down here, eh? (CHUCKLES) - D-nedin. Dun-edin. My brother lives there. I'm trying to move him from there, actually. Plays rugby, though. (INHALES) Go, Otago. - Dunedin was designed by Charles Kettle to echo the new town of Edinburgh, its classical grid system and these amazing sightlines. The actual topography, quite different, but it was all composed to create a beautiful, romantic city reflecting the new town of Old Edinburgh. - Literally transplanting the layout of Edinburgh on to Dunedin. - The pioneers here were lowlanders, and the biggest cultural symbol for them was really the poetry of Robert Burns. And of course, they esteemed Burns so much here that when it came time to sort of, you know, think about, 'What are we all about?' That statue goes into the Octagon in the late 1880s. It's right in the heart of town. That's such a symbolic placement. Dunedin is just pulsing with Scottishness. - Yeah. Is there any other city in the world that is as Scottish as Dunedin is? - I'd say Dunedin is right up there. You know, thinking about the Burns statue, thinking of the whakapapa of the people, thinking of the lineage of the name and thinking of all those other names in the town. It would have to be a fairly good claim to be one of the most Scottish cities in the world, outside Scotland, here ` definitely. - The name Dunedin comes from, um, Gaelic... which um... ain't Maori. (ALL LAUGH) - He nui nga akoranga kua mau e Joe mo te Edinburgh o mua, o naianei hoki. Engari he aha te ingoa taketake o tenei whenua? Ko te tumanako ka taea e Paulette Tamati-Elliffe o Ngai Tahu te awhina. The Pakeha name for this town, everybody knows is Dunedin, but he aha te ingoa Maori mo te wahi nei? - He nui nga ingoa Maori ki tenei wahi, engari i enei ra, me ki, ka mohiotia whanuitia te ingoa o Otepoti. - I ahu mai tera ingoa i hea? He aha te whakapapa o tera ingoa? - He ingoa no te ao taukiuki tenei. Well, e ai ki tetahi korero, no te iwi Pakeha taku whakapae, to matou whakapae, ko Otepoti ki ta ratou whakamaramatanga ` of the boats. - Oh. - Engari kei te he. Kei te he tera. - So they thought that it was named after a place where the boats came. - Yeah. So, you know, originally this` we're standing in water. Our harbour comes right up into the township area up there, so this is all reclaimed land. So Otepoti was a landing place. It was a bay. A poti is a kete, and it had corners. So it was similar to the shape of this bay. When you're coming up the harbour, there was a particular corner point, so Otepoti. - Tena whakawhanuihia nga korero mo tenei kohatu whakahirahira. - Ae, he tohu whakamaumahara tenei ki nga ra o nehe. Ko tenei takiwa me ki, tenei wahi, he wahi tupuna, a, he tauraka waka. And Toitu is the name of an awa that would have run down from the hills here right out to the harbour. So it's` tenei ingoa Toitu tauraka waka, he wahi tupuna hei tohu maumahara ki nga tamariki, ki nga mokopuna kei te heke mai nei, ko tenei to tatou taone. He wahi tupuna tenei wahi. - The first kind of tohu whakamaumahara to be put up in Te Wai Pounamu. Me pehea te uaua o te whakamana ano i enei wahi tapu whakahirahira - Well, yes, so as you can see, there's very, very few visual reminders of our Kai Tahu heritage here. So this is one step toward recognising that, restoring our narrative back in our city so that our kids and our mokopuna kei te heke mai nei, ka mohio pu ratou, ae, ko tenei wahi he wahi tupuna. - Their the harbour would have been a place where they collected food. It would've been a place where your waka came, where everyone was safe. There would've been a real good reason as to why that place was sacred and why it was used in the way it was used. - So, this used to be all your whenua. Tauiwi came. They built all their buildings on it. So is the challenge now for you guys trying to reclaim some of the place names? - Absolutely. It is something that is very important to us. And as we, you know, restore our language, restore our place names and continue to strengthen in our identity. (BELL TOLLS) - One identity that is evident everywhere in the city is the Scottish one, and I'm keen to find out more. You know what they say, if you wanna learn about the locals, dress like the locals. Hi, there. A little birdie told me that this is the place I come to for kilt fittings. - That's right. - OK. All ready. - Ah, Joe... we can actually do this with your pants on. - Oh. - Dunedin's obviously famous for the Octagon, which means it has eight sides ` ah, none of which are Maori. (ALL LAUGH) The Scots are such a part of the fabric of Dunedin that I've decided to don a bit of fabric myself. Tartan fabric, that is, with a bit of help from Kaye Foster at the Scottish shop. - OK. All ready. - Ah, Joe... we can actually do this with your pants on. - Oh. You should have said so. - Was that the official welcome from The old Scotsmen when they got there? (EXCLAIMS, LAUGHS) Put a undies on, eah. Far, that's probably how they got down there. Our Maori boys walking around with the old piupiu on, eh? No undies. 'Oh, bey, we got something in common there, cuz.' (LAUGHS) - I went to Scots College in Wellington... - Oh, yes. ...so we used to wear these formally. You know, I didn't want to say it, Kaye, but I know heaps about kilts. - Does Joe got a bit of Scots in him? SCOTTISH ACCENT: Joe Daymond. Could sound a bit Scots. - This is the modern kilt, which is very different from the... the kilt you see on Outlander, for example, where they just had one long piece of material. It would be thrown over their shoulder, and they could use it as a blanket. Does that feel comfortable? - Yeah, nah, it does. It does. I feel like I can run around for days in this, Kaye. (BOTH LAUGH) - Great. - I can run for the hills. - OK. - Do I take my pants off now or? - No. - OK. Sorry. My bad. My bad. My hands are up. - Next, we'll put the sporran on. - OK. Tell me about your Scottish heritage, Kaye. - Well, my grandmother was born in Scotland. My family from Edinburgh came out here on the Philip Laing, which was the second ship to arrive in Dunedin with the bulk of the English and Scottish settlers. - Wow. That feels good. - (CHUCKLES) - Feels like it's meant to be there. - Now we can pop the belt on. Looks good. - OK, belt. - And that fastens just like that. - Oh, yep, yep. Thank you. There we go. - That feel good? - Feels like it was made for me. What else have we got left, then? - Right. Ah, we can put the shirt on. - OK. Amazing. Thank you. (DRUMS RAP) (BAGPIPES BLARE) Sorry, Kaye. I'm trying really hard not to` you know, can't open up to too much. Don't want it to get dark in here, you know? (BOTH LAUGH) Am I supposed to wear anything under this or not? - Well, if it's your own kilt, you can wear anything you like. But if it's our kilt, you have to wear underwear. (BOTH LAUGH) - Nah, nah. Fair. Fair. I will keep the undies on. - I a Joe e whai wahi ana ki tana taha Kotimana, ko taku ngakau kei te minaka ke ki nga korero mo nga ingoa Maori. Kua kawea matou e te tama o Paulette, a Tumai, ki nga tutohu whenua o tenei rohe. - The awa that you can see over here is called the Taiari. - Taiari, not Taieri? - Ae. Taiari. - But on all signage, it's spelt Taieri. - Ae. The first official crown map of the area drawn by European surveyors, it's spelled as Taiari with the A. And then from that point onwards, there's multiple different spellings, with a Y, two E's. Eventually in the 1850s, I think, it sort of just became Taieri, with a` - With a E. - Yeah. Taieri. - Or Tai-Taia` - Tyree. - I can't even pronounce it badly. - Not Tai` yeah, yeah. - Tyree. Tyree. So, would you guys like to actually see the name of the awa changed? - Yeah. I think that's definitely an aspiration for our hapu. - So, Taieri, right, it's not that much of a change, to change it to Taiari. Taieri is something totally different to Taiari, right? - Taiari ` it talks about the shimmering waters. It also talks about the influence of the tide. Those little bits of matauranga and knowledge and mohio that are tied into these place names all play a part in how we connect to the place. - It's not hard, bro. One letter, cuz. Ain't that much. You take a sign down and you replace the E with an A. - Te ahua nei, he maha nga tohu hei panoni ake kia hoki tika mai te ingoa taketake. Waihola. I'm guessing that that's not correct. - Ae. The correct name for this lake is Waihora. - Makes more sense than Waihola. - Ae. So Waihora refers to great expanse of our wai ` of our water. - So, do you know how it ended up being called Waihola? - I think it's a similar story across the country where some of the earliest surveyors you know, asking the local Maori and then misspelling some of the names that were being told to them. - So what kind of mahi have you guys been doing to try and bring back these names, these ingoa, for people to learn about? - Ae. So the team at Ngai Tahu archives have put together an atlas, and, so, yeah. There's a publicly available version of that atlas, and we've released close to a thousand place names on there. No reira, ko tenei mauka e tu ake nei, ki etahi tangata, ka whakaingoahia ko nga 'Manga-twoers', heoi ano ko tana ingoa tika ko Maukatua. He tipuna no te waka o Arai Te Uru. E tau atu ra ki uta. Ara ia e tu atu, e tu ana e whakamarumaru ana i te riu o Taiari. - Ka taiawhio te omaki o mihi ki a koe. Thank you so much for sharing those beautiful korero about the place names here. There's still a lot of mahi to be done for people to get the name right in this area, but I feel like it's in good hands with people like you leading these korero and helping people understand the matauranga a bit better. - Yeah, yeah. So I think just educating people is the first step, cos a lot of people just don't know. A good place to start is by spreading those korero out there, you know, the authentic korero, so that everyone can have an understanding. - I'm also keen to have an authentic korero so that I can understand what the locals think of the name Dunedin ` and of my kilt. What do you reckon about what I'm wearing? - (LAUGHS) - It looks cool. - Yeah. It looks sick. - What clan is your tartan? - Mackenzie. Am I honouring your heritage? - No. I'm MacLeod. Yellow tartan. - My bad. - I'm into it. I think you` we should take a photo and then it can be your new Tinder profile photo. - Do you reckon I need one? - Oh, yeah. - Nah, do you reckon I need a Tinder? - Do you have a Tinder? - Got one now. - Ohh! - (LAUGHS) What do you think about the name Dunedin? - Ah, it's Scott`Scottish, right? - I think it's Spanish. - It's Spanish? - Nah, I'm kidding. That's` That's what the whole` So what do you guys reckon about the name Dunedin? - Um... very Scottish. - Yeah, I like the name Dunedin. - Can't say I've really considered it before. - Fine. - (LAUGHS) - Yeah, it's fine. I call it Otepoti a lot as well. Yeah. - Oh, you do? - I do like Otepoti too. - Yeah. - Which one do you think sounds better, though? - Dunedin, cos I can say it! - Would you like to see the te reo name be used a bit more? - Absolutely. It's nice to hear it on the news, though. I think that gives people more confidence to use it, cos they hear it more often. They're embracing it down here. It's nice. - Nah, you rednecks down here are doing well. - (GIGGLES) - Dunedin is Scottish as. But when I really think about it, like, when it comes to us Maori, like, I think Scottish isn't too much different. You know, they like haggis. We like hangi. They like kilts. We like kina. (ALL CHUCKLE) They like tartans. We like tatou tatou e. (ALL LAUGH) I've decided to focus on the thing that the Scots and Maori have in common that's closest to my heart, a love of kai. And there's nothing more Scottish than haggis. Sup, brother. Kia ora. - How we doing, lad? Looking good. What do you reckon? - Yeah, you're looking good. - Good to see you, David. - Yeah. Pleasure's all mine. - David Burt is a Scottish-born chef and restaurant owner, and Haggis is one of his specialities. All right, bro, what are we doing here today? - We're doing a traditional Scottish dish ` haggis clapshot. (IMITATES ROCKET) - Clapshot. - Clapshot. So clapshot's straightforward. It's just an old, traditional Scottish dish. - What's in it? - Neeps and carrots. How you call them, swedes over here? We call them neeps. This is venison haggis. - I've never tried haggis before. - Guts with the blood in it. Oh, God. I don't know. It's just disgusting. - It's the lining of the sheep's stomach, right? And you fill it with the heart and liver and everything. - This haggis is quite mild. It's not done in a sheep's stomach, cos a sheep's stomach takes three days to prepare. It's full of bacteria and stuff. It's gotta be soaked for 24 hours in salt. It's gotta be stretched. It's gotta be boiled. But we did that in Scotland cos we didn't have fridges or freezers. Stomach was a way to preserve food. - Oh wow. - Cos we've got peat bogs. You dig the peat. You bury your venison in the peat, and then come back a couple days later, dig it up, slice what you need. - Do you know that's really similar to Maori cuisine? You know, using the ground as a way to cook or prepare. - And also your, um` the ground has flavour in it. - Yeah. - Besides your peat bog, the peat stuff, we make our whisky with the peat, everything. So, this is a tattie scone. If you didn't eat your 'tatoes the night before, they were made into tattie scones. We don't believe in binning anything, cos we're tight as well. - Yeah. Very similar to Maori. - (LAUGHS) - Kaua e moumou kai ` no wasting food. You know, everything gets eaten. Most indigenous cultures have a similar, you know, idea around food, which is don't waste anything. It all gets eaten, and everything gets used in some sort of way, right? - Punch is a Scottish way for slow-cooked meat. It's quite thick, but we can change that with the whisky, right? Can you smell the wee hint of whisky coming through there? - You can` it's not a hint. - (LAUGHS) - I got drunk smelling that. (LAUGHS) One more sniff, I'm gonna start talking about my ex. - So, we'll take that lovely punch sauce with loads of whiskey in it, of course. Patch up my haggis. We've got the ravioli, potato tattie scone. There we go. Look at that. Ah. Oh. Slainte. - Kia ora, brother. - Yeah. Doesn't get better than that, eh? A wee dram to start the day. - I'm ready. I'm ready to go. - Let's get in there. - That's amazing. - And because it's not done in the stomach, it's just done like how we call a pan haggis, it's quite mild. It's quite tasty. - It's honestly so soft. You almost don't realise it's meat. - Yeah. - This honestly tastes amazing, bro. - It's a bit of home. - Damn. - And all New Zealand produce. Then we need to wash it down again. A wee bit more whisky. We're happy lads. Slainte. - Slainte. Kia ora, brother. - I a Joe e whakapae ana na te kai me te wihiki e mau ai te rongo i waenga i nga Kotimana me te Maori, e rangahau ana au i tetahi kaupapa e hono nei i nga ahurea o iwi e rua nei. Can you guys talk me through some of the mahi that you're doing to try and restore more Maori ingoa and more Maori place names to the area? - The project that we're working on at the moment is Otepoti Ngai Tahu Properties, developing a new building site. It's been led by a panel from across mana whenua, and we work really closely with the creative team here at Aukaha. - An interesting thing, really, with the Otepoti ACC building is it was in a heritage zone. The initial brief was it had to be sympathetic to the heritage of the place, and we had to challenge that and go, 'Well, you're talking about colonial heritage here.' - Yeah. - And how can we express mana whenua aspirations responding to colonial heritage? So we really had to break that down and challenge that, which was really successful. - In this day and age, it seems really crazy that this is actually the first building that has the tuturu Maori name, Otepoti, on it. - I do think it's taken, you know, 182 years or so` - Only 182 years (!) - ...to mature enough to realise that, you know, we were the Tangata Whenua o tenei takiwa nei. And to really value and appreciate the perspective and the world view that we bring as indigenous people. - It's not just pride. It's a sense of empowerment that my language and my history, my culture is respected enough to be prominent. - Through the building, it generates more stories for people to learn history about the area, right? - That's right. - And it's a beautiful visual representation of the whakapapa. Much prettier than those statues of some old coloniser dude. (BOTH CHUCKLE) - Well, both these statues are actually facing the building, so there's this is sort of wero, I suppose, back at them, which is a really interesting juxtaposition. - What does it mean for you to have these ingoa Maori and these stories visible, being recognised and being given the mana that they deserve? - Ka whakamana i to tatou reo, i to tatou iwi, te iwi taketake o tenei whenua, ki au nei. Kua roa nei a matou noho kei raro iho pea, i te kawanatanga me ki. Ehara tera i te tika. E ai ki te Tiriti o Waitangi, he mana orite. We're moving towards restoring that balance. So I do think we're in a new dawn or a new era of understanding and respect. I feel that our reo and our names are being valued. - I definitely think revitalisation for name change is 100% possible. Anything is possible. We just need to try it. - We're not renaming things. The names were colonised. It would be awesome if everyone knew how to speak both Maori and English in New Zealand. And then they wouldn't get scared about pronouncing places or changing the names, cos they'd be like, 'I know what that means! Cool.' That's a cool story. - I'm in Picton, famous as the gateway to the South Island. - Picton was known to authorise torture of some of his slaves. - Do you think the name should change? - No, I wouldn't like it. - ANNOYING VOICE: No, we're not changing it back. (LAUGHS) www.able.co.nz Copyright Able 2022 - Ko te reo te take.